"Chrysanthema" in Lahr, Germany

Yesterday, we took the "bac de Rhin", the ferry that runs between Rhinau (France) where I'm staying and Kappel in Germany and drove into Lahr. Every year this town has an autumnal festival that is unique in Germany called Chrysanthema. The historic centre is decorated with thousands and thousands of chrysanthemums.  The event, which starts this Saturday, will draw an estimated 300,000 visitors over the three weeks it is on. So, work was well underway when we were there getting everything ready. We will avoid the crowds this weekend but even the bits we saw gave me a very good idea how beautiful it is all going to look.

Vive la Difference!

Anyone who has travelled very much around France knows that one of its many charms is how many completely different regions it has. These vary a great deal in terms of geography, culture, climate, architecture, traditions, culinary specialties, and wines.  Monday when I flew the one hour or so flight from Nice on the Côte d'Azur to Strasbourg in Alsace, I knew much would be different.  I've been to this region in northeast France many times and am pretty familiar with it. For the uninitiated, Alsace lies between the Vosges mountains and the Rhine river which here marks the border between France and Germany.  So, I've now traded rose wines for Rieslings; peach-coloured stucco houses with terra cotta tile roofs for half-timbered buildings; salad nicoise for tarte a l'oignon; and the dramatic Alpes Maritimes for gently rolling hills. However, it doesn't much matter!  It is all still great because it is the magic that is France!

The Richness of the Côte d'Azur

The opulence and extravagance of this part of France is renowned - from the multimillion dollar (or is that Euro?) villas to the huge luxury yachts plying the waters of the Med. However, there are other kinds of richness that cannot, and should, not be overlooked. The natural scenery of this area is so breathtakingly beautiful that one runs out of superlatives trying to describe it. The geography is amazing and the contrast between the sea and the mountains is a feast for the eyes.  It is no wonder that the scenery, climate, light and colours here drew, and continue to draw, so many talented artists. So, in addition to the financial and geograph wealth, the area is also rich with art galleries and museums showcasing these artists.  One of the benefits of travelling with people who have some different interests than you is that you get exposed to new things. This trip has been enlightening for me from an art perspective. Both Karol and Gail know a lot about it; me, I'm more of whatever the "luddite" version of knowledge of art is!  So, it was a great experience and very informative to visit some of many art museums here with two people who are knowledgeable. In Antibes, we went to the Picasso Museum; in Cagnes sur Mer, we visited Renoir's house; we wandered through La Chappelle Rosaire in Vence designed by Henri Matisse; in Saint Paul de Vence, it was a visit to the world-renowned Maeght Foundation; and, yesterday, our last day in this region, featured a trip to the Jean Cocteau museum in Menton. The Maeght, which features modern art, has a special exhibition on right now called "Les Aventures de la Verite" (Adventures of Truth) which contrasts art and philosophy. It was a challenge to understand much of it but it certainly was interesting. As I stood in front of one of the collection's permanent statues in the garden trying to figure it out, Gail said to me, "Maureen, you don't have to understand it.  You just have to feel it!"  Maybe that is the answer.

The next day, in Menton, we wandered through an amazing exhibit in the Jean Cocteau Museum featuring works by him as well as Picasso and Matisse.  Now, I have to admit, I'd never heard of Cocteau (and when Karol and Gail first starting to talk about this person, I thought they meant Jacques Cousteau!) but I now feel blessed to have seen many of the works of this obviously talented person. However, no matter how hard I try, I never will "get" Picasso!

So, any trip here should include soaking up the wealth of art as well as the other riches this area has to offer.

And, even more gorgeous, St Paul de Vence

Leaving Gourdon yesterday, we drove north, continuing around the Col de Vence where much of the countryside was wilderness and either forested or barren.

One village we spotted but didn't explore, and probably should have, is Coursegoules, which according to its website, has changed little since the 13th century - oh well, next time.

We continued on, at one point stopping to get a closer look at the rocks.  The terrain appears to be a combination of long extinct volcanoes and the kind of layered rock (sandstone or limestone) that usually signifies some kind of prehistoric ocean, assuming I remember my Grade 8 geography correctly. Sure enough, when Karol picked up a couple of rocks, we could see fossils in them!  We drove south through Vence and headed slightly west to St. Paul de Vence which I'd been told was fabulous. I was totally unprepared, however, for what a stunningly beautiful village this is, one of the prettiest French villages I've ever seen and easily rivalling the charming ones in Alsace. We had a delicious lunch just outside the ramparts then set out to explore the streets and shops which, interestingly, had the best selection and prices we've seen anywhere.  We had planned to visit the Maeght Gallery but ran out of time so will return to do that Sunday. We needed a lot more time here!  Definitely, it is on my list of places to return to. It became crowded as the afternoon wore on and I can't imagine what it would be like in the high season!

Gorgeous Gorges

Since we left the Mediterranean coast, we've spent a couple of days exploring the inland region of the Alpes-Maritimes department.  Le Bar sur Loup is one of many medieval villages perched on the mountains here. A couple of days ago, we drove from here through Tourrette sur Loup to Vence. The river Loup has cut a very deep and scenic gorge into the terrain and the roads all around here are winding and dramatic, not to mention a bit challenging to drive!  You daren't take your eyes off the road for a minute.  No matter where you look across this countryside, it is a major dose of "eye candy".  We enjoyed our stop in Vence - having a fabulous lunch at Le Pigeonier, wandering the medieval streets, seeing a Chagall exhibit and visiting La Chapelle Rosaire designed by Henri Matisse.

Yesterday, we drove around the Col de Vence, a mountain popular with cyclists for training. We drove north from Le Bar to Gourdon which was our first stop.  This village is officially designated one of "Les Plus Beaux Villages de France", with good reason. The medieval streets are charming, filled with little boutiques and restaurants; in addition, the more than 180' views of the Mediterranean from Monaco to Cannes are spectacular. The village is dramatically perched on a rocky spur that juts directly over the river Loup providing views of the gorge. Note the road in the third picture. That's the one which takes you to the village.  More on the rest of yesterday's adventure in the next blog.

From one perfect place to another!

There was two cruise ships in la rade de Villefranche, this our last morning here.  So, as the sun rose and even though my hair was still wet from my shower, I got Karol to take a pic of me on our terrace. This has been a great spot in spite of some traffic noise and a few logistic issues. I really hope I get back here before too long. There is still much to explore.

Then, after our taxi to Nice airport to pick up our rental car, we drove to Le Bar sur Loup. As we steadily climbed from the sea, the scenery changed drastically. We are now amongst "villages perches" and olive groves. In spite of some complicated roads, we reached our new apartment without a hiccup. We are now in the upper floor apartment at La Bastide Saint Christophe in Le Bar sur Loup, about 35 km or so north of Nice. We still have an amazing vista from our living room and got to spend a couple of hours by the pool after a very delicious lunch at a restaurant near the village. So, we've traded on sort of blissful place for another. This is like having our own Provençal home. It is huge with a wonderful country kitchen. Tomorrow we plan to start exploring villages around here such as Gourdon and Vence.

Can't wait to start exploring this area tomorrow.

Des etoiles sur la Côte d'Azur

Having spent the last week here, I don't feel we have even begun to explore this amazing area of France. I think, however, we've made a pretty good start. For the last three days, we've gone to a different town each day. We skipped because we will have a day there in a week, not enough time, I know, but it will have to do.

So, on Saturday, we took the train to Antibes, only a 40 minute ride from here. The town was very busy but we gradually made our way to La Vieille Ville (we always do that) and then to Le Port. While I've tried to visit Antibes many times over the years, parking has always been an issue so this was my first visit. Many people have raved about it to me. Maybe I missed something but I didn't think it was anything special. Of course, it is okay - it IS the French Riviera after all but, for me, it didn't have the ambience of other places. We did have lunch on a cute little creperie and then walked to the Musee Picasso. That was a bit of a disappointment as we never did actually SEE a painting of his. We think we somehow missed a section of the building!  The views from the terrace were stunning and the statues "interesting".  I am still not convinced I saw the best Antibes has to offer so will reserve judgement until I see it again. It just lacked the magic of otherlaces for me.

The next day, Sunday, we took the train to Cagnes sur Mer. I had read on a website that October 6th was its Foire d'Automne so thought it would be something interesting to see. Now, I'm used to the foires and fetes in Alsace at this time of the year which have food and wine to sample, different exhibits, and local products so I was not expecting the largest market I've ever seen mainly consisting  of clothing, shoes, scarves and jewellery. So, what did we do?  We shopped!  It was interesting as there were few tourists around, primarily locals with their families. Later, we walked down to the sea front for lunch. Again, there were few tourists although, admittedly, it is the end of the season. We were the only non-locals in the restaurant where we ate. One of the main reasons for visiting Cagnes sur Mer, however, is the Musee Renoir which is located in the house where he lived. We took a taxi there and the setting is beautiful. The other bonus is that the museum is free and you can wander around the house and grounds. In the distance, from it, you can see Haut Cagnes, a village perche, which looks lovely.

Finally today, our last day on the coast, we took the train to Menton which is close to the
Italian border.  This became an enclave for the British upper classes in the mid to late 1800s when the climate, one of the best on the Riviera, was thought to be curative. So, many large hotels and villas to spend time here. The town is smaller than Antibes and much prettier, I think. There is a charming old
town and lovely beaches.  There is also a Jean Cocteau museum which, unfortunately, today was closed.  Still, we were glad we visited here. I could see coming back here to spend more time. It was our favourite of the three places we visited over the last few days.

The star, however, in my book is still Villefranche!   It is going to be very difficult to leave here in the morning!!!