Monday, 7 October 2013

Des etoiles sur la Côte d'Azur

Having spent the last week here, I don't feel we have even begun to explore this amazing area of France. I think, however, we've made a pretty good start. For the last three days, we've gone to a different town each day. We skipped because we will have a day there in a week, not enough time, I know, but it will have to do.

So, on Saturday, we took the train to Antibes, only a 40 minute ride from here. The town was very busy but we gradually made our way to La Vieille Ville (we always do that) and then to Le Port. While I've tried to visit Antibes many times over the years, parking has always been an issue so this was my first visit. Many people have raved about it to me. Maybe I missed something but I didn't think it was anything special. Of course, it is okay - it IS the French Riviera after all but, for me, it didn't have the ambience of other places. We did have lunch on a cute little creperie and then walked to the Musee Picasso. That was a bit of a disappointment as we never did actually SEE a painting of his. We think we somehow missed a section of the building!  The views from the terrace were stunning and the statues "interesting".  I am still not convinced I saw the best Antibes has to offer so will reserve judgement until I see it again. It just lacked the magic of otherlaces for me.


The next day, Sunday, we took the train to Cagnes sur Mer. I had read on a website that October 6th was its Foire d'Automne so thought it would be something interesting to see. Now, I'm used to the foires and fetes in Alsace at this time of the year which have food and wine to sample, different exhibits, and local products so I was not expecting the largest market I've ever seen mainly consisting  of clothing, shoes, scarves and jewellery. So, what did we do?  We shopped!  It was interesting as there were few tourists around, primarily locals with their families. Later, we walked down to the sea front for lunch. Again, there were few tourists although, admittedly, it is the end of the season. We were the only non-locals in the restaurant where we ate. One of the main reasons for visiting Cagnes sur Mer, however, is the Musee Renoir which is located in the house where he lived. We took a taxi there and the setting is beautiful. The other bonus is that the museum is free and you can wander around the house and grounds. In the distance, from it, you can see Haut Cagnes, a village perche, which looks lovely.




Finally today, our last day on the coast, we took the train to Menton which is close to the
Italian border.  This became an enclave for the British upper classes in the mid to late 1800s when the climate, one of the best on the Riviera, was thought to be curative. So, many large hotels and villas to spend time here. The town is smaller than Antibes and much prettier, I think. There is a charming old
town and lovely beaches.  There is also a Jean Cocteau museum which, unfortunately, today was closed.  Still, we were glad we visited here. I could see coming back here to spend more time. It was our favourite of the three places we visited over the last few days.


The star, however, in my book is still Villefranche!   It is going to be very difficult to leave here in the morning!!!

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