Home Sweet Home!

As much as my inner gypsy loves being on the road and exploring new places, I'm very cognizant of how beautiful where I live is. So, it wasn't exactly an onerous undertaking to come home!  Sunday afternoon, I took the train from Offenburg to Frankfurt Flughafen (airport) and spent the night there at the Hotel Mercure. Then, Monday morning, I was on the Air Canada flight to Calgary connecting to Victoria.  Everything went smoothly and, as we flew over the Rockies, there was no question how breathtaking the views from the plane were. 

Then, by 4 pm, I was home. The west coast has been shrouded in fog for the last week or more so the view from my balcony isn't quite what it should be. However, I know, despite not being able to see them, the majestic Olympic Mountains and the ever-changing strait of Juan de Fuca are there somewhere!  Lots of people make this their destination spot. I get to live here!  Talk about being blessed!

Now, I just have to start planning my next trip!!!  My inner gypsy is already starting to stir again. 

The golden colours of Alsace

For the last few days, I've been staying in Alsace and spent some time the last two days doing one of my favourite things ever: enjoying the Route des Vins d'Alsace. This is the 170 km road that runs along the eastern foothills of the Vosges through quaint, brightly-coloured villages, over undulating hills, and through miles and miles of vineyards with glimpses of medieval castles on many of the hilltops. The fall is a particularly good time to be here with the "vendange" (harvest) going on and the hillsides are gradually changing hue from green to gold, orange and red.

A couple of nights ago, our dinner was Mont d'Or, dubbed the 'holy grail of French raw milk cheeses'. This cheese is apparently available only in the late fall and winter and is often difficult to find. It comes in a spruce wood box and you heat it in the oven. What comes out is gold, goopy, buttery and yummy. You dip potatoes and/or bread into it although we also opted for some broccoli convincing ourselves that made it healthy!  The unanimous vote at the end of it all, however, was that it doesn't measure up to a dinner of Raclette but at least we tried it
.

As I said, the last two days were spent exploring the wine road. I've been here many, many times so I don't feel it necessary to visit the more well known and very touristy villages like Ribeauville, Riquewihr, Eguisheim, and Kaysersberg each time I'm here although I think they are fabulous. Today we went to Zellenberg and walked its "circuit historiques" then went on to Kientzheim where we sat in the main square in the sun having lunch. The vendange is still going on in places and the vineyards on the hills are a lovely golden colour.

On the way back to Rhinau, we took a road further east which parallels the Rhine. We traded the gold-coloured "vignobles" for fields of maize which, where harvested, is being stored in corn cribs, again a rich yellow colour. Everywhere we looked, the scenery was rich in the colours of autumn. Of course it helped in a very big way that the weather was sunny and warm!

Now next, I have to get my head around preparing for my return home. I'm so not ready!

"Chrysanthema" in Lahr, Germany

Yesterday, we took the "bac de Rhin", the ferry that runs between Rhinau (France) where I'm staying and Kappel in Germany and drove into Lahr. Every year this town has an autumnal festival that is unique in Germany called Chrysanthema. The historic centre is decorated with thousands and thousands of chrysanthemums.  The event, which starts this Saturday, will draw an estimated 300,000 visitors over the three weeks it is on. So, work was well underway when we were there getting everything ready. We will avoid the crowds this weekend but even the bits we saw gave me a very good idea how beautiful it is all going to look.

Vive la Difference!

Anyone who has travelled very much around France knows that one of its many charms is how many completely different regions it has. These vary a great deal in terms of geography, culture, climate, architecture, traditions, culinary specialties, and wines.  Monday when I flew the one hour or so flight from Nice on the Côte d'Azur to Strasbourg in Alsace, I knew much would be different.  I've been to this region in northeast France many times and am pretty familiar with it. For the uninitiated, Alsace lies between the Vosges mountains and the Rhine river which here marks the border between France and Germany.  So, I've now traded rose wines for Rieslings; peach-coloured stucco houses with terra cotta tile roofs for half-timbered buildings; salad nicoise for tarte a l'oignon; and the dramatic Alpes Maritimes for gently rolling hills. However, it doesn't much matter!  It is all still great because it is the magic that is France!

The Richness of the Côte d'Azur

The opulence and extravagance of this part of France is renowned - from the multimillion dollar (or is that Euro?) villas to the huge luxury yachts plying the waters of the Med. However, there are other kinds of richness that cannot, and should, not be overlooked. The natural scenery of this area is so breathtakingly beautiful that one runs out of superlatives trying to describe it. The geography is amazing and the contrast between the sea and the mountains is a feast for the eyes.  It is no wonder that the scenery, climate, light and colours here drew, and continue to draw, so many talented artists. So, in addition to the financial and geograph wealth, the area is also rich with art galleries and museums showcasing these artists.  One of the benefits of travelling with people who have some different interests than you is that you get exposed to new things. This trip has been enlightening for me from an art perspective. Both Karol and Gail know a lot about it; me, I'm more of whatever the "luddite" version of knowledge of art is!  So, it was a great experience and very informative to visit some of many art museums here with two people who are knowledgeable. In Antibes, we went to the Picasso Museum; in Cagnes sur Mer, we visited Renoir's house; we wandered through La Chappelle Rosaire in Vence designed by Henri Matisse; in Saint Paul de Vence, it was a visit to the world-renowned Maeght Foundation; and, yesterday, our last day in this region, featured a trip to the Jean Cocteau museum in Menton. The Maeght, which features modern art, has a special exhibition on right now called "Les Aventures de la Verite" (Adventures of Truth) which contrasts art and philosophy. It was a challenge to understand much of it but it certainly was interesting. As I stood in front of one of the collection's permanent statues in the garden trying to figure it out, Gail said to me, "Maureen, you don't have to understand it.  You just have to feel it!"  Maybe that is the answer.

The next day, in Menton, we wandered through an amazing exhibit in the Jean Cocteau Museum featuring works by him as well as Picasso and Matisse.  Now, I have to admit, I'd never heard of Cocteau (and when Karol and Gail first starting to talk about this person, I thought they meant Jacques Cousteau!) but I now feel blessed to have seen many of the works of this obviously talented person. However, no matter how hard I try, I never will "get" Picasso!

So, any trip here should include soaking up the wealth of art as well as the other riches this area has to offer.

And, even more gorgeous, St Paul de Vence

Leaving Gourdon yesterday, we drove north, continuing around the Col de Vence where much of the countryside was wilderness and either forested or barren.

One village we spotted but didn't explore, and probably should have, is Coursegoules, which according to its website, has changed little since the 13th century - oh well, next time.

We continued on, at one point stopping to get a closer look at the rocks.  The terrain appears to be a combination of long extinct volcanoes and the kind of layered rock (sandstone or limestone) that usually signifies some kind of prehistoric ocean, assuming I remember my Grade 8 geography correctly. Sure enough, when Karol picked up a couple of rocks, we could see fossils in them!  We drove south through Vence and headed slightly west to St. Paul de Vence which I'd been told was fabulous. I was totally unprepared, however, for what a stunningly beautiful village this is, one of the prettiest French villages I've ever seen and easily rivalling the charming ones in Alsace. We had a delicious lunch just outside the ramparts then set out to explore the streets and shops which, interestingly, had the best selection and prices we've seen anywhere.  We had planned to visit the Maeght Gallery but ran out of time so will return to do that Sunday. We needed a lot more time here!  Definitely, it is on my list of places to return to. It became crowded as the afternoon wore on and I can't imagine what it would be like in the high season!

Gorgeous Gorges

Since we left the Mediterranean coast, we've spent a couple of days exploring the inland region of the Alpes-Maritimes department.  Le Bar sur Loup is one of many medieval villages perched on the mountains here. A couple of days ago, we drove from here through Tourrette sur Loup to Vence. The river Loup has cut a very deep and scenic gorge into the terrain and the roads all around here are winding and dramatic, not to mention a bit challenging to drive!  You daren't take your eyes off the road for a minute.  No matter where you look across this countryside, it is a major dose of "eye candy".  We enjoyed our stop in Vence - having a fabulous lunch at Le Pigeonier, wandering the medieval streets, seeing a Chagall exhibit and visiting La Chapelle Rosaire designed by Henri Matisse.

Yesterday, we drove around the Col de Vence, a mountain popular with cyclists for training. We drove north from Le Bar to Gourdon which was our first stop.  This village is officially designated one of "Les Plus Beaux Villages de France", with good reason. The medieval streets are charming, filled with little boutiques and restaurants; in addition, the more than 180' views of the Mediterranean from Monaco to Cannes are spectacular. The village is dramatically perched on a rocky spur that juts directly over the river Loup providing views of the gorge. Note the road in the third picture. That's the one which takes you to the village.  More on the rest of yesterday's adventure in the next blog.

From one perfect place to another!

There was two cruise ships in la rade de Villefranche, this our last morning here.  So, as the sun rose and even though my hair was still wet from my shower, I got Karol to take a pic of me on our terrace. This has been a great spot in spite of some traffic noise and a few logistic issues. I really hope I get back here before too long. There is still much to explore.

Then, after our taxi to Nice airport to pick up our rental car, we drove to Le Bar sur Loup. As we steadily climbed from the sea, the scenery changed drastically. We are now amongst "villages perches" and olive groves. In spite of some complicated roads, we reached our new apartment without a hiccup. We are now in the upper floor apartment at La Bastide Saint Christophe in Le Bar sur Loup, about 35 km or so north of Nice. We still have an amazing vista from our living room and got to spend a couple of hours by the pool after a very delicious lunch at a restaurant near the village. So, we've traded on sort of blissful place for another. This is like having our own Provençal home. It is huge with a wonderful country kitchen. Tomorrow we plan to start exploring villages around here such as Gourdon and Vence.

Can't wait to start exploring this area tomorrow.

Des etoiles sur la Côte d'Azur

Having spent the last week here, I don't feel we have even begun to explore this amazing area of France. I think, however, we've made a pretty good start. For the last three days, we've gone to a different town each day. We skipped because we will have a day there in a week, not enough time, I know, but it will have to do.

So, on Saturday, we took the train to Antibes, only a 40 minute ride from here. The town was very busy but we gradually made our way to La Vieille Ville (we always do that) and then to Le Port. While I've tried to visit Antibes many times over the years, parking has always been an issue so this was my first visit. Many people have raved about it to me. Maybe I missed something but I didn't think it was anything special. Of course, it is okay - it IS the French Riviera after all but, for me, it didn't have the ambience of other places. We did have lunch on a cute little creperie and then walked to the Musee Picasso. That was a bit of a disappointment as we never did actually SEE a painting of his. We think we somehow missed a section of the building!  The views from the terrace were stunning and the statues "interesting".  I am still not convinced I saw the best Antibes has to offer so will reserve judgement until I see it again. It just lacked the magic of otherlaces for me.

The next day, Sunday, we took the train to Cagnes sur Mer. I had read on a website that October 6th was its Foire d'Automne so thought it would be something interesting to see. Now, I'm used to the foires and fetes in Alsace at this time of the year which have food and wine to sample, different exhibits, and local products so I was not expecting the largest market I've ever seen mainly consisting  of clothing, shoes, scarves and jewellery. So, what did we do?  We shopped!  It was interesting as there were few tourists around, primarily locals with their families. Later, we walked down to the sea front for lunch. Again, there were few tourists although, admittedly, it is the end of the season. We were the only non-locals in the restaurant where we ate. One of the main reasons for visiting Cagnes sur Mer, however, is the Musee Renoir which is located in the house where he lived. We took a taxi there and the setting is beautiful. The other bonus is that the museum is free and you can wander around the house and grounds. In the distance, from it, you can see Haut Cagnes, a village perche, which looks lovely.

Finally today, our last day on the coast, we took the train to Menton which is close to the
Italian border.  This became an enclave for the British upper classes in the mid to late 1800s when the climate, one of the best on the Riviera, was thought to be curative. So, many large hotels and villas to spend time here. The town is smaller than Antibes and much prettier, I think. There is a charming old
town and lovely beaches.  There is also a Jean Cocteau museum which, unfortunately, today was closed.  Still, we were glad we visited here. I could see coming back here to spend more time. It was our favourite of the three places we visited over the last few days.

The star, however, in my book is still Villefranche!   It is going to be very difficult to leave here in the morning!!!

The Canucks lost? So what!

One of the things so great about travelling is that it gives you the opportunity to put things in perspective. Things that seem overwhelming, terribly important or insurmountable at home turn out to matter not so much in another environment. So, this morning when I was listening to the play by play of the end of the Canuck game (around 6 a.m. local time) I thought to myself (had to as neither Karol nor Gail were up nor do they care about hockey), great; here we go again!  Another season of excuses and frustration!  Then I looked out my balcony doors across the bay at the sunrise and somehow, in the midst of all this beauty, hockey just didn't seem to matter!  Now, ask me again in November and I might have a different perspective!

Just a few hours later, we were visiting Villa Kerylos, another of the famous houses in the area.  It is modelled in the Greek style, both in terms of architecture and furnishings.  Both Karol and Gail liked it a lot more than Villa Rothschild but I still prefer that latter. Kerylos means "kingfisher" in Greek and the bird is considered a good omen in Greek mythology. The villa was built by Theodore Reinach and his wife who was a member of the Ephrussi family. The family continued to live in the villa until 1967 when it was subsequently classified as a "Monument Historique" and made accessible to the public.

 We then walked to Beaulieu sur Mer (not far) where we had lunch at Le Port looking in awe at the abundance of luxury yachts. Although the weather was a bit cooler and cloudy, it was still a perfect day!

A Day in the Life . . .

Okay, what did we get up to yesterday?  After we went to the open market to buy roast chicken, potatoes, vegetables and fruit for our dinner, we wandered down to the quay for a late breakfast. There wasn't a cruise ship in so the streets were pretty quiet, unlike the previous day. We sat in the sunshine at the edge of the water having our Cafe Americanos or orange juice and our croissants or pains au chocolat.

After our "petit dejeuner" , we walked along the Promenade des Marinieres around the bay to Cap Ferrat.  By this time it was 11:30 and there were lots people on the beach and in the sea.

 We walked over the hill and down to the port of St. Jean for lunch at the Bar du Port. Not recommended - either the village or the restaurant; long story!  The villas we managed to get glimpses of behind their intimidating gates along the way there were amazing!  So much money it is almost obscene - but maybe I'm just envious!  From St. Jean, we took the bus the short way up the hill to the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild. I had been there two years ago and loved it so I was delighted when Karol and Gail expressed an interest in going.  The interiors are amazing and the gardens stunning. It is a true gem - and, thankfully, upon her death, Beatrice de Rothschild bequeathed the villa to the Academie des Beaux Arts so it will forever be publicly accessible.

From there, we headed back to our apartment where the only thing similar to the villa are the stunning views!  We had a light dinner sitting on the terrace. Such is life on the Côte d'Azur!

Better than advertised!

This morning I checked out of my hotel and headed down to the Cosmos Bar in La Vieille Ville  to pick up the keys to our apartment. Then I hiked back up the hill (there are lots of steep hills here!), got my bag from the hotel and then hiked further up the hill to find the apartment. It (finding the building, not the walk up in the heat) was easy. When I opened the door to this 4th floor flat, I was stunned!  I expected it to be lovely but it is even more lovely than it looked on the website. There is a large terrace off the sitting room and master bedroom facing the sea with breathtaking views. Both the other two bedrooms have smaller balconies overlooking gardens at the back. The building is almost directly across from the Hotel Versailles where I stayed two years ago but the views are slightly better as we are that much higher up. I'm already trying to hatch a plan on how to come back here before too long. Karol and Gail arrive this evening and, after a sortie to the local epicerie, the kitchen is now stocked with cheeses, several Provence wines and baguettes for us.

Let the party begin!